This double cream, soft, thermalized cows' milk cheese is, by cheese timelines, a new invention. But it is made with time-tested respect and awe for the craft in Combremont-Le-Petit in Switzerland's Vaud. Ripened under strict climate parameters in a natural stone cellar and coddled in the cheese makers own affinage, it becomes a spreadable buttery, peppery, mushroomy delight. Lather it on crackers... enjoy it with a rich red. It will hold its own. And more.

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